Fay Maschler's week in food: from tomato tarte Tatin to disappointing king crab

The Evening Standard's restaurant critic details the culinary highlights of her week
Unsatisfying: a “thigh” of frozen red king crab at Fancy Crab
Fay Maschler
Fay Mascher23 August 2017

Sun slants seductively through a glass of pastel rosé. Domaine Sainte Lucie L’Hydropathe 2016 accompanying tomato tarte Tatin with burrata at amiable 8 Hoxton Square is summer Sensurround.

Trotter sausage with warm summer beans and confit rabbit is quintessential Chez Bruce cooking from Mr Poole and Mr Christmas and thus reliably fabulous.

It is Tom Maschler (first husband’s) birthday. Lovely Manoj Vasaikar from Indian Zing brings one of Tom’s favourites, the black lentil and ginger Ma di Dal — and so much more.

After the enthralling Girl from the North Country at The Old Vic, in which my granddaughter Ruby has a friend in the cast, we go to The Delaunay for lobster roll.

Merus, the “thigh” of frozen red king crab at Fancy Crab in Wigmore Street, costs £23 and barely satisfies. Down the road at Beast they swim in tanks.

Fay Maschler's 50 favourite restaurants in London

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