Wine Guy: Gamay keeps going

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I’m not sure which catchphrase to intro with; should it be Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé or #goGamaygo?

Either way, there’s no denying that the Gamay grape has loyal followers. Equally true, for all this attention, Gamay remains a relatively niche cultivar. For, try as they might, Gamay fans—whether it’s wineries in Beaujolais where the grape reigns in red wines, or simply serious aficionados, have yet to win the wine world over.

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Wine Guy: Gamay keeps going Back to video

Well, you can count me among the believers. And, since this happens to be the third Thursday of November, (heralding the annual Beaujolais Nouveau release), it again marks an apropos time to sing the praises of Gamay.

Bouchard Aîné and Fils 2016 Beaujolais, France ($13.99, #147546)

The thing is, Beaujolais Nouveau is actually a poor example of Gamay’s potential. To be fair, it was never intended to signify the grape’s true prowess, indeed it was a brilliant marketing ploy whipped up in the 1970s by star négociant Georges Duboeuf to help generate quick revenue for Beaujolais producers. Unfortunately, Beaujolais Nouveau ended up being many North Americans’ introduction to the Gamay grape. For a better introduction, check out a general appellation bottle like Bouchard Aîné and Fils Beaujolais, which, for around the same price offers a more substantial (but still fun and lively) take on Gamay. Oozing cherry and raspberry, this is a juicy, light and bright red that is not overly complicated but is sure fun to sip—and ends crisp and balanced. It’s also easy food-pairing wine, and works well with everything from midweek pasta to weekend pot roast. 

Bottom line: B-, All around, go-getting Gamay.

Domaine Steeve Charvet 2015 Chiroubles, France ($29.99, #121135)

Of course, to really get serious about Gamay from Beaujolais it’s worth heading to the ten specific Crus located in the northern stretches of the region. These areas are considered the prime Gamay-growing locales, so much so that Beaujolais won’t even feature on the label—only the specific Cru. As a general rule these Gamays are bolder, more structured, and more robust than general Beaujolais, and as one example check out this bottle from Chiroubles. Chiroubles has the highest overall elevation of the Crus, and Steeve Charvet’s offering pours a deep garnet in the glass while offering lush aromas of dark berry and herbs with a mineral-flecked underlay. True, it’s pricey for Gamay, but with so much intensity and depth overall it offers solid value when compared with top-notch wines from other regions.

Bottom line: A-, Clutch Cru Gamay

Oak Bay Vineyard 2015 Gamay Noir, British Columbia (from $18.50, available through the winery and select private wine stores)

There’s Gamay beyond France as well, in fact B.C. vineyards and wineries bring good representation of the grape. And while I find a number of these offerings lay a heavy  winemaking hand (resorting to overtly ripe styles and big-time use of oak aging), Oak Bay Vineyard’s current release captures the grape’s local spirit: juicy black cherry, a lick of pepper spice, a lashing of toasty oak, and good vibrancy overall. All this from a transitional organic vineyard, long sustainably farmed by the Gebert Family, and representing a pioneering B.C. wine story.

Bottom line: B, Gutsy Gamay

The Swirl: Holiday Cheer Open House

The “Heart of Wine Country” is throwing open their collective doors the weekend of November 17-18, inviting all to visit fourteen different Okanagan Falls wineries to explore holiday gifting ideas, food pairings, and wine samples. Organized by the Okanagan Falls Wine Association, in the spirit of the season wineries will be collecting nonperishable canned goods to donate to Helping Hand’s Christmas Food Hampers. For complete details head to www.ofwa.ca. 

Contact James: @hadaglass