Of all the grapes in all the wines in all the world, furmint is probably my favourite. Grown in Hungary and neighbouring Slovenia and Slovakia for more than 500 years, it is particularly associated with the Tokaj region and its famous sweet wines, but recently has found favour in its dry iterations.
Sometime in the mid-16th century, the population of Tokaj, a remote village in the foothills of the Carpathian mountains, were forced to flee the invading Ottoman armies, leaving their unpicked grapes behind. One lonely priest remained, hiding in the cellars beneath the vineyards until the marauders had moved on. By the time he emerged, the grapes had shrivelled on the vines but, presumably with not much else to do, he made wine from them anyway.
The juice had concentrated into a honey-like nectar, making an intensely sweet wine that became known simply as Tokaji, and that in 1703 Louis XIV declared to be “the wine of kings, the king of wines”, thus endorsing it among aspiring drinkers for centuries to come. However, while these sweet Tokajis still make wine geeks go weak at the knees, these days it is the dry styles made from furmint that are setting pulses racing.
After decades in the Soviet-controlled doldrums, the Hungarian wine industry is finding its feet once again. Young and energetic winemakers are looking to lighter and fresher styles more fitting to modern palates than the traditional powerful reds and heavily oaked whites made by previous generations. Dry furmints are a prime example of this.
What appeals about them is their characteristic streak of appetising acidity, along with a certain seductive smokiness that comes from Tokaj’s volcanic soils. Some have lip-smacking, lemony freshness, others more rounded, quince-like fruit, and aromatics that remind me sometimes of warm apricot jam, sometimes of racy spearmint. Those made in stainless-steel tanks come with a twang of wet seaside pebbles; those gently aged in oak have more spiciness and creamier textures. All are very versatile with food, but also make for happy drinking alone.
Dry furmints were almost unknown only a decade ago, but are now increasingly appearing on lists of fashionable wines among wine writers and restaurant buyers. I am not alone in flying the flag for this fabulous grape: Wines of Hungary are spreading the word with their current Furmint February campaign, and I urge you to get involved.
Four fabulous furmints
Royal Tokaji Dry Furmint 2015
£11.99 (or £9.99 on the mixed-six) Majestic, 13%.
A little barrel ageing adds weight, softness, and whiffs of pineapple and pumice stones.
Barta Egy Kis Dry Furmint 2017
£13.95 Corney & Barrow, 13%.
Green apples, pears and salted roast nuts from a brilliant organic winery. Dazzling.
Puklavec & Friends Furmint 2016
£8.99 (on offer) Waitrose, 12.5%.
A furmint from Slovenia, fragrant with peach blossom and lime zest, and great value for money.
Disznoko Aszu 5 Puttonyos (vintage availability varies)
£27.49 Ocado, 12%. £30 Amazon
Classic sweet Tokaji, luscious with honey and candied citrus peel notes. A winner with blue cheese.
Kate Hawkings is a drinks writer. Her latest book, Aperitif, is published by Quadrille at £16.99. To order a copy for £14.95, go to guardianbookshop.com.
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